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Fast Plans / Where to go now

FastPlans/Escape to the Dells

Children ride tubes at an indoor water park in the Wisconsin

Got the November blahs? Try a quick getaway to the Wisconsin Dells. You'll get the best deals this month and in December, when most people are focused on the holidays.

What to do indoors: Lounge in the indoor water parks, of course. The Kalahari's is biggest, but the Wilderness and Great Wolf Lodge also have as many slides and rides as anyone could want. The Chula Vista has the best setting, on wooded river bluffs. All four have spas. Or shop at Tanger Outlet Center.

What to do outdoors: Hike at nearby Mirror Lake or Devil's Lake state parks. Go horseback-riding with Canyon Creek Riding Stable.

Deals: At the Wilderness, it's $99 weekdays, $124 for a two-bedroom suite with fireplace, which also is $124 on the first three Fridays in December.

At Great Wolf Lodge, use the promo code REPEAT2 to get a $119 rate weekdays, $149 weekends through Dec. 18. Or, rent a $160 suite through Nov. 21 and get a $50 spa certificate.

At the Kalahari, pay $130 for a room for four, and if you cite the Dells deals, you also get a pizza-and-pop dinner with your room.

At Chula Vista, pay $75 per person for lodgings and unlimited meals and drinks through Nov. 27. Through January, two nights for four cost $199, including breakfast and a large pizza. Deals are good Sunday-Friday.

Check web sites regularly for other deals.

Information: Wisconsin Dells tourism, which lists deals. For more, see Making waves.

Shopping in Madison

State Street in Madison.

There's always excitement in the air on Madison's State Street (pictured), but especially in November, when Badgers football draws crowds to Camp Randall and the holidays are on the horizon. The town is a trove of one-of-a-kind gifts, and serious shoppers can time visits to catch one of three holiday markets.

Where to shop: State Street, of course, including museum gift shops. Monroe Street, which heads south from Camp Randall stadium, has lots of fun shops and places to eat.

Shopping events: Nov. 7-9, the Madison Ballet's Madison Holiday Market at the Alliant Energy Center. Nov. 15-16, the Winter Art Festival at Monona Terrace. Nov. 21-23, the Holiday Art Fair at the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art on State Street.

Nightlife: See a concert, play, ballet or touring show at the Overture Center on State Street.

Where to stay: The Badgers play home games against Minnesota Nov. 15 and against Cal Poly Nov. 22, so reserve now.

Details: See Shopping in Madison.

Exploring Northfield

The Archer House hotel in Northfield.

Just an hour south of the Twin Cities, the college town of Northfield makes a great excursion. Concerts put on by St. Olaf's renowned music program are perhaps the region's best deal — they're free — but be careful; it's easy to spend a bundle in the nifty little shops downtown.

What to do: Shop along Division Street. Learn about the infamous 1876 bank raid  at the Northfield Historical Society. Catch a free concert or recital at St. Olaf College.  Catch a play or free Friday-morning convocation lecture at Carleton College. Hike in Carleton's Arboretum, or "Arb,'' on the northeast edge of town.

Events to catch:  Oct. 31, the play "Rocky Horror Picture Show'' at the Northfield Arts Guild Theater. Dec. 4, Winter Walk by candlelight downtown.

Where to shop: First, stop at Fireside Orchard, just off I-35, for apples and freshly made doughnuts. On Division Street, try Swag for home decor, Glass Garden for beads and Present Perfect for stocking stuffers. Some shops are closed Sundays.

Where to stay: The historic Archer House (pictured) has shops and restaurants under the same roof. For more coddling, try the Magic Door B&B, four blocks from downtown.

Where to eat: On Division Street, the HideAway is a great place for lunch or some tapas and wine after a hard day of shopping. Chapati serves the cuisines of India. The Contented Cow specializes in British fare.

Information: Check Visiting Northfield.

Shopping Cedarburg

Historic downtown in Cedarburg, WI

Half an hour north of Milwaukee, Cedarburg is the shopping destination every big city likes to have nearby. The quiet old Yankee mill town on Cedar Creek features a historic district full of restored storefronts, a winery, an artists guild, a cultural center, festivals and lots of opportunities to shop, especially in the months leading up to Christmas.

What to do: Shop for gifts or antiques along Washington Avenue or at Cedar Creek Settlement, a restored 1864 stone woolen mill. Sample wine at Cedar Creek Winery. If it's nice, bicycle to Port Washington or beyond on the paved, 30-mile Interurban Trail.

Events to catch: Oct. 24, 26 and 31, Gothic History Tours, 90-minute walking tours in the historic district. Nov. 21 through Dec. 19, Festive Friday Eves at Cedar Creek Settlement, with entertainment, cookouts, luminarias and free treats. Dec. 5-6, Holiday Art Fair and Christmas in the Country. Dec. 5-7, Winter in the Garden Holiday Show.

Where to stay: The 1886 Washington House Inn (pictured) has a great buffet breakfast and some rooms with kings or two beds, for girlfriend getaways. The 1853 Stagecoach Inn B&B also is a good place to stay. If you can't get a room there, there are other places nearby.

Details: See Jolly Cedarburg.

Fall at Devil's Lake

Devil's Lake State Park in fall.

In fall, there's nowhere more spectacular than Devil's Lake State Park, the most-visited park in Wisconsin. The Ice Age National Scenic Trail loops around it atop 500-foot quartzite cliffs, passing Balanced Rock and Devil's Doorway and giving hikers one great view after another.

When to go: This week should be peak color, and it's magnificent. Don't miss the golden canopy at the north entrance.

What to do: Hike the West Bluff and East Bluff trails around the lake. Go to nearby Pewits Nest, a narrow gorge with a pond sheathed in fallen leaves. See one of all 15 species of cranes at the International Crane Foundation. Visit Circus World Museum. See the Forevertron at Dr. Evermor's Art Park.

Events to catch: Oct. 17-19, Fall Art Tour in Baraboo. Oct. 18-19, Autumn Harvest Fest in Wisconsin Dells. Nov. 1, Candlelight Hike of 1½ miles at Devil's Lake.

Where to stay: The Willowood Inn, a neat and comfortable mom-and-pop motel, is closest to Devil's Lake, just south of Baraboo. The Inn at Wawanissee Point is a B&B on 42 acres just east of Devil's Lake.

Where to eat: In Baraboo, the Little Village Cafe on Courthouse Square is casual and friendly and serves good food.

Details: See Devil's heaven.

A view of Dubuque

The Fenelon cable railway in Dubuque.

People who think Iowa is flat are in for a surprise when they visit Dubuque, a Mississippi port built on seven hills. Over the last decade, the town rejuvenated its waterfront and added a world-class river museum; now, it's a prime tourist destination.

What to do: Visit the excellent National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium. Take a fall-color sightseeing cruise on the Mississippi or a wildlife eco-tour cruise into the backwaters. Ride the Fenelon Place Elevator (pictured) up the bluffs. Take a trolley tour. Go on a Victorian House Tour & Progressive Dinner. Hike in the Mines of Spain Recreation Area. In nearby Dyersville, visit the Field of Dreams movie site.

Events to catch: Oct. 11-12, Galena Country Fair in Galena, Ill., a 15-minute drive.

Where to stay: On the riverfront, Grand Harbor Resort and Waterpark is close to everything and good for families. On a blufftop estate near Eagle Point Park, the Four Mounds Inn is a beautiful Arts and Crafts bed-and-breakfast. Four B&Bs occupy handsome Victorian mansions: the  Hancock House,  the Richards House,  the Mandolin Inn and the Redstone Inn.

Where to eat: The classy Pepper Sprout at Fourth and Main serves very good food. Bricktown Brewery & Blackwater Grill at Third and Main is more casual. On the riverfront, the new Star Restaurant and Ultra Lounge occupies the old Star Brewery.

Information: Dubuque Area Chamber of Commerce. For more, read Destination Dubuque.

Fall in Door County

In fall, Door County produces plenty of pumpkins.

Leaf color in Wisconsin's Door Peninsula, wrapped by the warm waters of Lake Michigan, peaks later than northern forests, in mid-October. Its apple orchards, pumpkin patches and vineyards provide even more eye candy for tourists, who flock in on weekends.

What to do: See a lighthouse (three of them, on a fireboat cruise from Sturgeon Bay). Hike in five state parks and 17 county parks. Look for wildflowers on the trails at The Ridges Sanctuary in Baileys Harbor. Bicycle quiet roads across the interior, in Peninsula State Park or on Washington Island. Shop in Fish Creek, at orchard markets and dozens of galleries. Go to a fish boil. Take a workshop at The Clearing, a folk school. Tour five wineries and one brewery.

Events to catch: Oct. 11, candlelight hike in Peninsula State Park. Oct. 11-12, Townline Art Fair in Ephraim. Oct. 11-12, Fall Festival at Washington Island Farm Museum. Oct. 17-19, Fall Festival in Sister Bay.

Nightlife: See "Sherlock Holmes: The Final Adventure'' at the Peninsula Players in Fish Creek.

Where to stay: Reserve as soon as possible for weekends. There are many bed-and-breakfasts as well as condos, cottages and motels.

Details: 800-527-3529, www.doorcounty.com; also see Door prizes and Outdoors in Door County.

Fall in Red Wing

Hikers climb to the top of Barn Bluff in Red Wing.

Red Wing has a charmed location: in the elbow of the Mississippi River, in the shadow of boxy Barn Bluff and only an hour south of the Twin Cities. That and its historic buildings, jewel-box theater and many shops make it a favorite fall destination.

Getting there: It's fun to go by train; Amtrak's Empire Builder arrives from the west at 8:54 a.m. and from the east at 8:52 p.m.

What to do: Hike up Barn Bluff (pictured).  Catch a concert or play at the Sheldon Theatre. Ride the Cannon Valley Trail to Welch and back. Sample wine at Falconer Vineyards. Drive down to Lake City to pick up some HoneyCrisp apples and take a paddlewheeler cruise on Lake Pepin. Watch passing boats from Bay Point Park.

Events to catch: Sept. 27-28, Big Top Chautauqua's "Old Minnesota: Song of the North Star'' at the Sheldon. Oct. 3 and 17, American Queen docks. Oct. 11-12, Fall Festival of the Arts. Oct. 11, Lehto & Wright concert at Falconer Vineyards.

Where to stay: Weekends fill fast. Try the newly reopened Pratt Taber Inn or three other B&B inns within walking distance of downtown:  the Candlelight, the Golden Lantern or the Moondance, which also rents a separate house suitable for girlfriend getaways.

Where to eat: See the new Nortons, recently returned from Bay City. On Old West Main Street, pick up a picnic or have lunch at Smokey Row Cafe. For a burger with a view, try the Harbor Restaurant & Bar.

Quirky McGregor

A little girl runs along a blufftop path in Pikes Peak State

If you think Iowa is flat, just visit northeast Iowa and, in particular, McGregor. This little Mississippi River town is surrounded by steep bluffs, which give tourists great views and trails to hike. But McGregor is most remarkable for its oddball attractions.

When to go: It's gorgeous in fall, and that's when the crowds come.

What to do: Take a boat tour of Spook Cave. See one of the Upper Mississippi's best views from Pikes Peak State Park (pictured). Hike at Effigy Mounds National Monument. See an amazing trove of folk art at Danial Slaughter's Wood Crafts & Junk on U.S. 18. Browse in River Junction Trade Co., outfitter to gunslingers and riverboat gamblers. Canoe or kayak the Yellow River. See the bottled sand paintings at the Historical Museum.

Events to catch: Sept. 27 and Oct. 25, Hole in the Sock Gang street theater with bank robberies, cowboy shootouts and saloon girls, sponsored by River Junction. Oct. 4-5 and 11-12, Fall Arts & Crafts Festival.

Where to stay: Near downtown, the quiet McGregor Manor has four rooms. On Main Street, Little Switzerland Inn rents suites, a room and an 1848 log cabin. Two other B&Bs are on Main Street, the Stauer House and the Lamp Post Inn, and McGregor Lodging rents suites.

Where to eat: Try the new Old Man River Restaurant & Brewery in the 1880s Diamond Jo building on Triangle Park or Latinos for Mexican food.

Information: McGregor-Marquette chamber, or see Memorable McGregor.

Art in Mineral Point

High Street in Mineral Point Wisconsin.

In southwest Wisconsin, Mineral Point is a rare discovery. Not only is it genuinely friendly and unpretentious, it's beautiful and full of art. In 2007, the National Trust for Historic Preservation called it "an architectural treasure trove,'' naming it one of a Dozen Distinctive Destinations.

What to do: Take a class at Shake Rag Alley Center for the Arts, a picturesque complex of historic cabins and cottages. Shop for art in the galleries on High Street and for cheap Land's End catalog returns at the Bargain Nook. Learn about the town's mining past and Cornish heritage on tours of Pendarvis.

Events to catch: Saturday mornings, a small but excellent farmers market in Watertower Park. Sept. 12, Jammin' on the Porch. Sept. 26-27, Cornish Festival. Sept. 27, Taste of Mineral Point. Oct. 17-19, Fall Art Tour.

Where to stay: Shake Rag Alley rents rooms in its 1840s Coach House and apartments in the 1839 Mousehole Cottage. Brewery Creek Inn has four rooms with sleeper sofas, nice for girlfriend getaways. The Historic Cothren House has a stone cottage and a log cabin.

Where to eat: The Brewery Creek Inn for fish, Cafe Four for gourmet pizza, Midway Bar & Grill for burgers, the Red Rooster Cafe for pasties. The Old Royal Inn offers a large menu at bargain prices.

Information: For more, see Mining for art in Mineral Point.

The North Shore in fall

Hikers enjoy a vista on the Superior Hiking Trail.
For Minnesotans, the stretch of Lake Superior they call the North Shore is hallowed ground. The cobblestone beaches, the dramatic river gorges and the panoramic views of a vast inland sea all make their hearts beat a little faster.

People in other states join in the adoration; every year, the North Shore is voted the top destination in Lake Superior magazine's annual reader poll.

When to go: If you don't like crowds, now is an excellent time; the crowds have gone back to school or work and bugs on trails have died back. The fall-color rush starts the third weekend of September, and weekend reservations will be hard to get through the third weekend of October, when Minnesota schoolchildren have a four-day break and the entire shore books up.

The best color is on the inland maple trees, where peak comes in late September, a week earlier than along the shore.

What to do: Hike the trails. Ride the Gitchi-Gami Trail (to combine hiking and biking, see Walk 'n' roll). Through mid-September, go on a guided kayak tour from Grand Marais. Play at Gooseberry Falls. Have a picnic on Palisade Head. Skip rocks, stack a cairn or hunt for agates on the beaches.

Events to catch: Sept. 26-28, Unplugged VII: The Northern Harvest music and arts festival at North House Folk School in Grand Marais. Sept. 26-Oct. 5, Crossing Borders Studio Tour. Oct. 17-19, Moose Madness Festival in Grand Marais.

Where to stay: Whatever you choose, reserve it now.

Where to eat: Finally, restaurants are preparing food as splendid as the surroundings; see Dining on the North Shore.

Exploring the Porkies

A waterfall on the Presque Isle River in the Porcupines.

On Lake Superior in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park is gorgeous, home of a stand of old-growth forest —  sugar maple, eastern hemlock, yellow birch — that's the biggest and best of its kind east of the Mississippi.

The Twin Cities is the closest metropolitan area, five hours away, but Minnesota's North Shore siphons off many hikers and outdoors-lovers, and the Porkies, which has a hundred miles of hiking trails, remains a serene and untrammeled treasure.

When to go: In late summer, bugs have thinned out and swimming is good; the park's lakeshore is sandy, not rocky. In fall, bugs are gone and the park shows one of the region's best displays of leaf color, which should peak in early October.

What to do: Go hiking, especially on the Escarpment Trail 300 feet above Lake of the Clouds (pictured in fall). See waterfalls along the Little Carp and Presque Isle rivers. Go on a naturalist walk.

Events to catch: Aug. 22-24, Porcupine Mountains Music Festival, with 25 folk, blues, zydeco and bluegrass acts performing on two stages.

Where to stay: The park rents 19 rustic cabins, three yurts and a handsome 1940s lodge.

Just outside the park, Mountain View Lodges has attractive cabins, four open to pets, and a sand beach lined with fire pits.

Information: Porcupine Mountains visitors bureau. For more, see Afoot in the Porkies.

Voyageurs National Park

A boat speeds past an island on Rainy Lake in Voyageurs Nati

Don't let summer run out before exploring Minnesota's only national park, which is mostly water and a blast to explore by park-service pontoon, rented launch or houseboat.

When to go: Now, while all the guided boat and canoe tours still are being offered and the water is warm, for swimming. Late August and September, after the bugs die down, is the best time to hike.

What to do: Take a Rainy Lake boat tour to the Little American Island gold mines, to a historic fish camp and looking for bald eagles. Take a Lake Kabetogema boat tour to the historic Kettle Falls Hotel (pictured), tour the Ellsworth Rock Gardens with a naturalist or cruise to Lost Bay and hike to Lake Agnes.

Explore by canoe with a naturalist or travel like a voyageur, in a 26-foot North canoe. Reserve all tours in advance.

Hike one of nine trails. Learn about the park at three visitors centers. Explore Rainy Lake in a rented motorboat or houseboat.

Where to stay: The park's 1913 Kettle Falls Hotel has a restaurant and saloon, rental boats and fishing guides — and quite a history.

Campsites in the park are cushy, with docks, tent pads, metal food lockers, picnic tables and privies. They're reached by boat only and are first-come, first-served. Permits are free.

Information: Download the park newspaper. For more, see Land of big water.

See the world in Winnipeg

Bicyclists ride by the pavilion in Assiniboine Park.

In summer, Winnipeg makes up for its long winters with a burst of festivals, including the huge Folklorama, which incorporates the dozens of nationalities that make up the city's gloriously lumpy melting pot. Bring an appetite.

What to do: Visit The Forks at the junction of the Assiniboine and Red rivers to eat, shop, watch buskers and take a pontoon-boat interpretive tour. See the zoo, conservatory and sculpture garden at Assiniboine Park (pictured) and hear a free concert or play. Visit the Royal Canadian Mint.

Go to St. Boniface Cathedral in the French quarter for the theatrical walking tour “In Riel’s Footsteps.’’  Take a walking tour of the Selkirk Avenue cultural mosaic, 204-586-3445.

Events to catch: Aug. 3-16, Folklorama, an ethnic extravaganza at 44 pavilions around the city. Aug. 24, Heritage Bus Tour on a 1937 Winnipeg Transit bus. Sept. 5-7, Manitoba Dragon Boat Festival at The Forks. Sept. 20-21, Irish Festival.

Where to stay: The 1913 Hotel Fort Garry is next to downtown and The Forks, as is the all-suites Place Louis Riel. And there are many B&Bs.

Where to eat: For some of everything, The Forks. For Italian, especially gelati, Corydon Avenue.  For dim sum, Chinatown. For pierogi, Alycia's in the North End.

Information: Destination Winnipeg. For more, see Bazaar on the prairie.

Bemidji and Paul Bunyan

Paul Bunyan and Babe stand beside Lake Bemidji.

In Bemidji, it's all about Bunyan. The northern-Minnesota town was first to create a giant Paul, in 1937, and it's the northern trailhead of the Paul Bunyan State Trail. The professional Paul Bunyan Playhouse stages plays in summer,  and in August, a new opera festival is presenting "Paul Bunyan.''

What to do: Ride the first 7 miles of the Paul Bunyan State Trail along the eastern shore of Lake Bemidji. Swim from the beach of Lake Bemidji State Park. Catch a play at the Paul Bunyan Playhouse,  "Three Days of Rain'' through Aug. 2 or "The Music Man'' Aug. 6-16. Go to the first Lake Bemidji Summer Opera Festival, presenting "Paul Bunyan'' Aug. 1-2. Buy a plaid ear-flap hat from Bemidji Woolen Mills.

Events to catch: Aug. 1-2, Dragon Boat Festival on Lake Bemidji. Aug. 8, International Day at Concordia Language Villages, an open house with food, canoe rides and cultural activities.

Where to stay: Ruttger's Birchmont Lodge, a full-service resort on the northwest corner of Lake Bemidji; it has excellent deals the last half of August. The newer, lodge-style Hampton Inn & Suites has a long sandy beach on the south shore near downtown, 218-751-3600. The 1910 Villa Calma B&B is on the west shore. 

Information: Bemidji tourism. Also see Bemidji's behemoths.

Keweenaw Peninsula

Soft sandstone lines the Keweenaw's Oliver Bay.

In summer, Michigan's Keweenaw Peninsula is beautiful and cooled by Lake Superior, yet quiet even at the peak of tourist season. It doesn't have many "attractions,'' yet there's so much to see — carpets of wildflowers, soft pink-sandstone beaches, old mining towns, 10 lighthouses. In late July, blueberries ripen along roads and bear sightings are likely.

What to do: Take a boat tour to the 1866 Copper Harbor Lighthouse. Kayak the Keweenaw Water Trail. Swim in Eagle Harbor and buy muffins at the nearby Jampot. Take the ferry to Isle Royale. Pick blueberries and explore the beaches between Bete Grise and Gay (pictured). Talk to the living-history interpreters at Fort Wilkins State Park. Tour old mines and Coppertown USA in Calumet.  Go to a concert at the Calumet Theatre. Cruise the spine of the peninsula on Brockway Mountain Drive.

Events to catch: July 25-27, Civil War Encampment at Fort Wilkins. Aug. 9-10, Eagle Harbor Art Fair. Aug. 16-17, Art in the Park in Copper Harbor.

Where to stay: The quiet and genteel Lake Breeze in Eagle Harbor if there's a room, 906-289-4514. In the hills above Copper Harbor, the WPA-built Keweenaw Mountain Lodge. Near Ahmeek, the Sand Hills Lighthouse Inn.

Information: See Digging the Keweenaw and Copper Harbor refuge.

Breezy in Bayfield

Bayfield's marina is filled with sailboats and yachts.

For more than a century, vacationers have been making their way to this breezy hillside village on the south shore of Lake Superior. It's the gateway to the Apostle Islands and a good place to hit the water by kayak, sailboat, ferry or launch.

What to do: Go kayaking with Living Adventure. Take a cruise of the Apostle Islands. Learn to sail or charter a sailboat. Take the ferry to Madeline Island.

Go to a concert or revue at Big Top Chautauqua. Pick berries in the orchards above town. Walk the three-mile Brownstone Trail along Chequamegon Bay. Bicycle around the Bayfield Peninsula.

Events to catch: July 26-27, Festival of Arts. Sept. 3-20, Lighthouse Celebration.

Where to stay: There's a large array of cottages, condos, B&Bs and motels; the city web site has an availability search.

Overlooking Chequamegon Bay on the edge of downtown, Seagull Bay is a friendly and well-run motel. The Bayfield Inn overlooks the marina and cruise dock. A mile north of town off Wisconsin 13, the Island View Inn and Cottages is a nice place for families.

Where to eat: For a fun dinner with friends, Maggie's on Manypenny Avenue. For a special occasion, Wild Rice just outside town.

More information: See Beloved Bayfield.

Cooling off in Duluth

Aerial Lift Bridge as seen from Skyline Parkway in Duluth.

When the rest of the Upper Midwest broils, this Lake Superior city basks in cool breezes. Canal Park is the tourist hub, but there's a lot to do all over town.

When to go: Weekdays, in summer.

When not to go (unless you have a reservation): July 23-27, FinnFest 2008. Aug. 1-3, Tall Ships Festival. Aug. 7-10, Bayfront Blues Festival.

What to do: From Canal Park, watch ore boats and the Wednesday-evening sailboat races. Walk the Park Point Trail from the airport to the Superior entry of the harbor. Ride the North Shore Scenic Railroad. Go for a cruise on the Vista Fleet.

Around town, explore Skyline Parkway (take a dip in Amity Creek if it's warm). Hike the Superior Hiking Trail. Visit Glensheen mansion. Picnic in the Rose Garden off the Lakewalk.

Events to catch: July 4, Fourth Fest in Bayfront Festival Park. July 12, Bayfront Reggae Festival. Check the city events calendar for more.

Where to stay: In summer, hotels on Canal Park are expensive but in the middle of the action.

In West Duluth, the Munger Inn is a good value, especially if you plan to ride the Lake Superior & Mississippi Railroad, hike the western section of the Superior Hiking Trail, paddle on the St. Louis River or bicycle on the Willard Munger State Trail (see Duluth's other waterfront).

Duluth with kids: See Duluth rocks!

Summer in Winona

Inline skater on trail in Winona

With the temporary closing of its bridge across the Mississippi, Winona has had a rocky start to summer. But now the scenic college town is ready for an action-packed July.

Getting there: It's scenic by car or by train. Amtrak's Empire Builder arrives from the west at 10:11 a.m. and from the west at 7:50 p.m.

What to do: Walk, skate or bike the five miles around Lake Winona (pictured). See the new Minnesota Marine Art Museum. Visit the new Garvin Heights Vineyards and see the view. Watch the American Queen dock at 1 p.m. July 13 and Aug. 10 and 24. Explore the sloughs by canoe or kayak.

Events to catch: June 25-July 27, Great River Shakespeare Festival, with "The Merchant of Venice'' and "Taming of the Shrew,'' and free concerts (James Armstrong, Simone Perrin, Terpsichore, Dan Chouinard) are given on the Winona State University green before the Friday and Saturday shows.

July 1-20, Minnesota Beethoven Festival at various venues around town.

Where to stay: The Alexander Mansion, a luxurious Victorian B&B, is throwing in a free ticket to the Great Shakespeare Festival with a stay. For budget accommodations, try the Alverna Center, a guesthouse run by St. Mary's University, 507-494-6100.

Where to eat: Signatures, at the Bridges Golf Club in the bluffs. Close to the river downtown, Jefferson Pub & Grill. For a good twist cone, Penguin Zesto near St. Stanislaus Catholic Church. For a good beer and pub lunch, Bub's Brewing Co. at East Fourth and Center streets.

More information: See Afloat in Winona.

Wonders of Thunder Bay

Kakabeka Falls near Thunder Bay.

When summer finally arrives, Lake Superior's largest and possibly friendliest town kicks up its heels and celebrates. Join in, and also see the many striking natural features that surround Thunder Bay.

What to do: Spend a day at Fort William Historical Park, a re-created fur post, and see living history at its best. Visit magnificent Kakabeka Falls (pictured). Walk along the marina in Port Arthur at sunset. Just east of the city, hike in Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, the long peninsula that creates Thunder Bay's harbor. Dig for amethysts. See Ouimet Canyon.

Events to catch: June 25 through Aug. 20, free Wednesday-evening Summer in the Parks concerts in the marina. July 1, Canada Day in Marina Park. July 4-6, Blues Festival in Marina Park. July 10-14, Great Rendezvous at Fort William Historical Park. July 18-19, Dragon Boat Festival on Boulevard Lake. July 26-27, Battle of Fort William at the historical park.

Where to stay: The Prince Arthur overlooks the marina in Port Arthur, the eastern part of town. On the southern edge of town, the White Fox Inn is a luxurious inn/B&B/restaurant at the foot of the Nor'westers range. Nearby, old-fashioned Chippewa Park on the lake has cabins and camping.

Where to eat: For breakfast, the Hoito in the Finnish neighborhood of Port Arthur. For exquisite continental cuisine, Bistro One. For Italian, Giorg Restaurant in Fort William, 807-623-8052.

Riverfront Minneapolis

On Main Street, diners eat outside on a spring day.

After a century and a half of industry, the downtown Minneapolis riverfront finally is a place to play. It's a magnet for tourists and locals alike, and everyone wants to be outdoors: listening to free concerts, dining at sidewalk tables, strolling on the Stone Arch Bridge, watching fireworks.

What to do: Run, walk, bike or skate the parkway loop from the Stone Arch Bridge to the Plymouth Bridge, through Boom and Nicollet islands. Take a cruise from Boom Island Park on the Minneapolis Queen. Take a Segway tour. Go on a horse-drawn carriage ride. Tour the Guthrie Theater. Take a historic walking tour from Mill City Museum.

Next to the Guthrie, the Mill City Farmers Market holds cooking demos and performances on Saturday mornings.

On the west side of the river, between the Plymouth and Broadway bridges, the Twin Cities River Rats put on free water-ski shows on Thursday evenings.

Free music: The Mill City Museum offers free concerts in its courtyard the first and third Thursdays at 6 p.m.

From June through August, free concerts are given at 7:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 5 p.m. Sunday in the courtyard between Vic's and Tuggs Tavern at St. Anthony Main.

Events: June 13-15, Stone Arch Festival of the Arts. July 4, Red White and Boom family festival with music from 3 p.m. and fireworks at 10 p.m. July 26, Aquatennial fireworks show.

Where to stay: The limestone Nicollet Island Inn, built in 1893 as the Island Door and Sash Co., is in the middle of everything. It has a restaurant and 24 individually decorated rooms, all with views.

Where to eat: Buy a picnic at Surdyk's in northeast Minneapolis, two blocks from the east end of the Hennepin Bridge, and eat it on Nicollet Island. Also: Punch for pizza, Kramarczuk for Eastern European comfort food and Fugaise for French cuisine.


Chicago on the cheap

bicyclists along Chicago's Lakefront Trail

In summer, everyone wants to be in Chicago. So, of course, the price of hotel rooms skyrockets. Air fare isn't cheap, either. But the entertainment is free once you get there, and it's easy to eat well for very little.

Here are some tips for making a trip to Chicago affordable.

Getting there: Take Amtrak or the Megabus. The earlier you buy the tickets, the cheaper they are.

Where to stay: Rooms are $28-$34 per person, including breakfast, at the friendly and comfortable Hostelling International family hostel in the South Loop, voted Best Large Hostel Worldwide in 2006 and 2007. On weekends, volunteer locals lead forays around town.

Where to eat: There's a kitchen at the hostel and a Panera a block away. You also can eat well for less than $10 at Cosi, the Corner Bakery, Panda and Chipotle, all on Michigan Avenue; and at L’Appetito, a great Italian place at the foot of the John Hancock Tower.

Free events: There's always something going on at Millennium Park; Navy Pier, which puts on a fireworks show every Wednesday and Saturday; and in Grant Park, where the free classical Music Festival runs at the Jay Pritzker Pavilion June 11-Aug. 15.

Other big Grant Park festivals include the Blues Festival, June 5-8; Taste of Chicago, June 27-July 7; Air and Water Show, Aug. 16-17; Latin Music Festival, Aug. 23-24; and Jazz Festival, Aug. 28-31.

Tours: Volunteer Greeters offer free tours of Chicago neighborhoods; reserve seven to 10 days in advance.

Half-price tickets: Buy them on-line or at the Cultural Center at Michigan and Randolph or the Water Works Visitors Center at Michigan and Pearson.

Information: Pick up a copy of the Time Out Chicago Student Guide, which is full of tips. The Chicago tourism office at the Cultural Center makes a good first stop; see what's going on and have a bite in the cafe.

Sample La Crosse

The world's largest six-pack in La Crosse, Wis.

In summer, most of the students leave this three-college river town, making way for the tourists. Most gravitate to Riverside Park and downtown, and the hospitality center of City Brewery always is hopping, too. See Cruising La Crosse.

Getting there: Why not take the train? From the west, Amtrak's Empire Builder arrives at 10:47 a.m.; from the east, at 7:14 p.m.

What to do: Go on a cruise of the Julia Belle Swain, a lovely steam-powered paddlewheeler, or the paddlewheeler La Crosse Queen. Drive up Grandad Bluff for a panoramic view of the town. Visit downtown's bars and ice-cream parlors. Tour City Brewery. Starting June 10, take a Historic La Crosse Trolley tour around town. Starting June 18, see a River City Water Ski show, 7 p.m. Wednesdays at Airport Beach.

Where to stay: Reserve your own 1917 country schoolhouse, the Wilson Schoolhouse Inn, off U.S. 14/61 just south of town. In town, there are two B&Bs in stately homes, the Celtic Inn and the  Bentley-Wheeler. Near City Brewery, the Guest House Motel is a good budget motel.

Watch for: The newly constructed Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe will be dedicated the week of July 28 in the scenic bluffs on the south edge of town, off U.S. 14/61. For now, lunch at its Culina Mariana restaurant and see the Stations of the Cross.

Exploring Door County

Dwarf lake iris grow in Door County

In May, this Wisconsin peninsula on Lake Michigan is as gorgeous as ever, but you don't have to share it with crowds. Venture beyond the shops to the headlands, estuaries, beaches and nature preserves. Many endangered and rare wildflowers (such as dwarf lake iris, pictured) bloom among the sandy ridges and boggy swales of Ridges Sanctuary in Baileys Harbor.

What to do: Hike in Whitefish Dunes and Potawatomi state parks. Paddle or hike in the Mink River Estuary. Bicycle in Peninsula State Park and on pastoral county roads. Tour some of the 10 lighthouses. Go on birding and blooms field trips during the Festival of Nature, May 22-24.

Other events: Lighthouse Walk, May 16-18. Fine Art Fair in Sturgeon Bay and Maifest in Jacksonport, May 24-25. Birding Festival on Washington Island, May 31-June 1.

Where to stay: The luxurious Blacksmith Inn is near Ridges Sanctuary. In Ephraim,  the Village Green Lodge in Ephraim is less expensive and very pleasant.

Information: 800- 527-3529, www.doorcounty.com. For more about wildflowers and the Festival of Nature, see Bloom County.

Touring Trempealeau

Jeweled shooting stars on Brady's Bluff in Trempealeau.

This little Mississippi River village in southwest Wisconsin is an outdoors mecca in spring. It has everything anybody could want — exquisite wildflowers, bird-watching, canoeing, biking, hiking — even outdoor concerts (See Hitting the trails in Trempealeau).

Events: May 10, Birding Festival in Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge just north of town, with an early bird walk, canoe/kayak tour, prairie wildflower walks, junior birder hikes and bird-banding. May 17, Blues Bash at the Trempealeau Hotel.

What to do: Climb Brady's Bluff in Perrot State Park, adjoining the north side of town, for a panoramic view down the river valley and, up close, La Montagne Qui Trempe a l'Eau, the mountain that soaks in water. On the way, you'll pass Fern Gully, a moist nook lined with spring ephemerals, and hillsides covered with the fragrant jeweled shooting star (pictured).

Go bird watching in the wildlife refuge, just north of the state park. The refuge also is a good place for bicyclists to head out on the 24-mile Great River State Trail, which heads south through the river bottoms to Onalaska.

From Van Loon Wildlife Area, just east of town, hike along the four-mile McGilvray Road trail, where five rare bowstring-arch bridges cross red-tinted streams and there's lots of wildlife.

Where to stay and eat: The Trempealeau Hotel, justly famous for its walnut burgers, microbrews and river views.

Happy trails in Lanesboro

A bicyclist starts out on the Root River Trail in Lanesboro.

In May, this hamlet in Minnesota's southeast corner will kick into high gear as bicyclists, paddlers and trout fishermen stream into its many inns and B&Bs. The beautiful Root River State Trail jump-started Lanesboro's renaissance in the 1980s, but now tourists also come for the theater and art.

What to do: Feeling sporty? Bicycle the Root River State Trail (Hint: If you're driving from the north on U.S. 52, drop off part of your party in Fountain for the nine-mile downhill glide into Lanesboro). Canoe or kayak the Root River. Fish for trout.

Feeling cultural? See "Peer Gynt'' at the new Commonweal Theatre. Shop for art at Cornucopia Art Center. Take an Amish tour in the countryside, or buy Amish goods at the Saturday-morning farmers market in Sylvan Park, which starts May 10.

When to go: On May 2-4, catch Ibsen Fest, a celebration of Scandinavian culture. May 17 is the Stand Still Parade in Whalan. June 7 is the goofy Rhubarb Festival. June 15 is Art in the Park.

Where to stay: The Cottage House Inn on Parkway Avenue always is a good bet, and there are many other inns and B&Bs.

Where to eat: Try the Vintage, which just moved to a storefront next to the Commonweal Theatre.

A Muir Tour of Wisconsin

Baby maple leaves unfurl in early spring.

Celebrate John Muir's birthday, April 21, with a trip to the sand plains of central Wisconsin, where Muir and fellow naturalist Aldo Leopold began to shape the conservationist ethic that made them famous (See Spring in the Baraboo Hills).

Leopold's shack and Muir's childhood home are half an hour apart and near the International Crane Foundation; Parfrey's Glen, the state's first natural area; and some of the most scenic stretches of the Ice Age National Scenic Trail.

What to do: North of Baraboo, visit the International Crane Foundation. Leopold's farm is just to the east, along the Wisconsin River, and includes the famous Shack and the new Legacy Center. Half an hour farther east, visit John Muir's boyhood home, now John Muir County Park, 11 miles north of Portage.

South of Baraboo, hike the Ice Age National Scenic Trail in Devil's Lake State Park. Just east of the park, walk in Parfrey's Glen. Just southwest of Baraboo, visit Pewits Nest, another beautiful state natural area.

Information: Baraboo has nightlife, good restaurants and shops.

Greening up the Gunflint

Burnt trees line the Gunflint Trail.

Last May, a wildfire burned nearly 79,000 acres at the end of Minnesota's Gunflint Trail and Ontario (pictured, along the road in March). New life is emerging; expect a bumper crop of spring wildflowers and, some say, morel mushrooms. And on May 3, volunteers will plant 75,000 red- and white-pine seedlings.

It's part of the Gunflint Green Up festival May 2-3. Volunteers receive a T-shirt, Friday welcome picnic and Saturday box lunch, dinner and dance; trees and planting equipment are provided. Registration is $30.

On May 2, naturalists will lead a fire-ecology hike and boreal-forest talks and walks, the Gunflint Lodge's Sue Kerfoot will talk about trail history and Layne Kennedy will show photographs.

After the planting May 3, the Splinters will play for a dance at the Gunflint Lodge. On May 4, there's the Ham Run Half-Marathon and 5K Fun Run. This is the off-season, so lodgings are discounted.

Sections of the 65-mile Border Route Trail also took a hit from the fire as well as the 1999 blow-down, and the Minnesota Rovers Outdoors Club, which built the trail in the 1970s and maintains it, also is looking for volunteers. It's holding trail-clearing trips April 25-28 and May 15-18 and 22-26. Volunteers don't need to be members.

The Kekekabic Trail Club also is holding Gunflint trail-clearing trips May 2-4, 16-19, 17-18 and 22-26. Volunteer orientation is April 22 and 30 at Midwest Mountaineering in Minneapolis. People who want to use mechanized equipment can take Forest Service Saw Training April 19 and 20 at Bunker Hills Regional Park in Coon Rapids.

Boat-watching in Duluth

Oreboat entering the Duluth harbor ship canal

In Duluth, boat-watchers are waiting for their ships to come in.

Great Lakes freighters already have been coming and going; the Edwin Gott and Lee Tregurtha left March 23, and the Paul Tregurtha arrived April 2. But boat nerds watch for the first salties, not only because they're rarer but also because they're so much prettier than the barge-like ore boats. Last year, only 158 of the 1,231 freighters that called on the Twin Ports were ocean-going.

When to go: If possible, go on a weekday; boat traffic is just as brisk and you can get a good deal on a hotel.

What to do: Visit the free Lake Superior Marine Museum next to the Aerial Lift Bridge. Shop on Canal Park, at Fitger's and downtown.

Where to stay: The South Pier Inn has a front-row seat on the ship canal. It's now offering waterfront suites for $152-$192 on weekdays, including tickets to the Great Lakes Aquarium and Depot. That sounds like a lot, but rooms go for $177-$357 in summer. Other Canal Park hotels also are offering specials; check the Hot Deals at Visit Duluth.

How to keep track of boats: Check Duluth Shipping News, which estimates Twin Ports arrivals and departures, and Boat Nerd, which displays a map of current vessel locations on the Great Lakes.

What else to do: Gallery Hop on April 19, with the Port Town Trolley providing a free shuttle. April 22, Blue Man Group at DECC. April 27-May 4, 10th annual Homegrown Music Festival. Starting May 9, cruises on the Vista Fleet.

Touring Galena

Two trolley tours prowl the streets of Galena, Ill.

Everybody loves Galena, the cute little "town that time forgot.'' And because everybody can be a lot of people, spring is the best time to enjoy it. Tulips and daffodils bloom on the terraces, weather is mild and streets are not too crowded. And there's always lots to do and see.

What to do: Go on a trolley tour, a walking tour, a ghost tour, a vineyard tour or a kayak tour of the placid Galena River. Take a cooking class or beading workshop. Visit the Ulysses S. Grant Home. See a musical show about Mark Twain. Shop, of course. There's a complete list of events at www.galena.org.

Big events: President Grant's Grand Birthday Celebration April 18-20 includes living-history encampments, a ball, a period church service, concerts, a pie auction and dinner with "the famous and infamous.''

Where to stay: Choices are dizzying. In less-busy seasons, just stop by the visitors center, leaf through the photo albums and reserve an inn that looks good. Greenbriar Country Inn & Suites is well-priced, well-located and allows stays of just one night, even on weekends and holidays.

Getting there: It's a lovely drive down the river or through bluff country, but if you live in the Twin Cities and really want to get there fast, Northwest Airlines is starting service to Dubuque June 20. The fare for a June 20-22 getaway, as of March 25? A cool $499.

Having a ball in Milwaukee

Milwaukee's Miller Park.

It cost Milwaukee big-time, but now the Brewers have a beautiful stadium with a retractable roof. When they open their season against Kansas City on March 28, no one will be shivering in the stands. There's lots to do downtown (See Playtime in Milwaukee) and you can get a good rate at hotels, which are expensive during the summer festival season.

Watching a game: City buses start running down Wisconsin Avenue to Miller Park two hours before the game, $2 each way, and are waiting when the game ends. Don't miss the seventh-inning sausage race, run by a brat, a hot dog, a Polish, an Italian sausage and a chorizo.

More fun for kids: Visit the new Discovery World science emporium and aquarium on the lakefront, just south of the art museum.

What else to do: People love the Milwaukee Art Museum and its "wings,'' which open at 10 a.m., flap at noon and close at 5 p.m. And the always-popular Milwaukee Public Museum is showing "Body Worlds.''

Nightlife: In April, see the Milwaukee Ballet at the Pabst, "Jesus Christ Superstar'' at the Milwaukee Theatre, "Girls Night: The Musical'' at the Marcus Center, Michael Bublé at the Bradley Center or "Enchanted April'' at the Milwaukee Rep.

Where to stay: The Hilton Milwaukee City Center on Wisconsin Avenue, if you have children. It's conveniently located and has an indoor water park.

For adult getaways, the art-deco Ambassador, the hip Hotel Metro, the Hampton Inn Suites or the InterContinental, connected to the Pabst and Marcus Center.

Information: 800-554-1448, www.visitmilwaukee.org.


A drive around Lake Pepin

Shoppers enter a store in little Stockholm, Wis.

Winter is slow for shops and restaurants in the smaller villages on this wide spot in the Mississippi. But they've emerged from their slumber with the reopening of the popular Harbor View Cafe in Pepin, which marks the start of tourist season. On a warm spring day, Lake Pepin is everyone's favorite road trip.

Where to start: It's a 70-mile loop from Red Wing, Minn., in the north and Nelson, Wis., in the south.

What to do: Watch for returning eagles. Visit the Maiden Rock Bluffs state natural area. Explore the artsy shops in Stockholm (pictured). Check out the new Lake Pepin Art & Design Center in Pepin, which is showing textiles from Ghana. Visit the new National Eagle Center in Wabasha. Have a latte in downtown Red Wing or climb Barn Bluff.

Where to eat/snack: In Maiden Rock, the Smiling Pelican Bakery. In Stockholm, Bogus Creek Cafe. In Nelson, the Nelson Cheese Factory. In Lake City, Nosh.

In Pepin, the Harbor View Cafe is open for lunch and dinner Fridays-Sundays until April 17, when it adds Thursdays. On Memorial Day, it adds Mondays. On particularly nice days, many people arrive by 5 p.m. (4:45 p.m. Saturdays) to avoid a long wait. No reservations or credit cards.

Dates to watch for (or avoid): During the Spring Flood Run, April 19, thousands of motorcycles will roar up and down the river. The 100-mile Garage Sale is May 2-4.

Spring in the Ozarks

Alley Spring Mill near Eminence, Mo.

Blooming dogwood and hawthorn, robins hopping around on new grass, beds of daffodils lining country lanes. Sound good? Then head for southeast Missouri, where frozen northerners will find spring in all its glory (See Floating Missouri and On the rocks in the Ozarks).

When to go: From late March through April, most days are sunny and around 70 (though they also can be cold and rainy). In May, crowds from St. Louis and Kansas City start arriving.

What to do: Watch the Missouri Whitewater Championships on the St. Francis River (shown) March 15-16. Paddle the Jacks Fork and Current rivers, part of Ozark National Scenic Riverways, the first national park to protect a wild river system. Stand in the shadow of 680-ton Dumbo in Elephant Rocks State Park. Gaze into the Deep Hole in Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park. Climb Missouri's highest point in Taum Sauk Mountain State Park. Seek out old grist mills and turquoise springs. Eat grits and pet a coon hound.

Where to stay: On the Black River in rural Lesterville, the Wilderness Lodge.  For families, the YMCA's Trout Lodge near Potosi; it offers spring-break rates through April.

Information: Missouri State Parks; Arcadia Valley tourism; Missouri tourism.



Fun around Ely

A musher comes down the trail with his dogs on the North Sho

In winter, Ely's wide open spaces are a playground for anyone who likes to move fast over snow (See Playtime in Ely).

What to do: Ski the Hidden Valley trails on the east edge of town, www.elynordic.org, or at Bear Head Lake State Park, seven miles south of Minnesota 169 between Ely and Tower. Snowshoe to the Hegman Lake pictographs or on the hilly North Arm trails, both off the Echo Trail north of town.

On the west edge of town, visit the new North American Bear Center, open Saturdays only until its three bears emerge from hibernation, www.bear.org. On the east end, visit the International Wolf Center, www.wolf.org.

March is one of the best times to mush a sled-dog team. In Ely, Paul Schurke's Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge, www.dogsledding.com, is best-known; for others, visit www.ely.org.

Where to eat: SuLu's Espresso Cafe in Tower is a delightful new spot owned by two sisters who grew up in Tower, moved away for 25 years and returned. Its raspberry-white chocolate scones are justly renowned; also try the homemade pasties and soup.

In Ely, check out the new brewpub at Cranberry's on Sheridan Street or Chapman Street Market, which sells panini, soups and salads in addition to artisan breads and cheeses.

Where to stay: Grand Ely Lodge is the largest, on Shagawa Lake just north of town, www.grandelylodge.com.

Information: 800-777-7281, www.ely.org.


Owl-watching in bluff country

Young girl admiring a saw whet owl

Owls are heard but rarely seen in the wild, which makes Houston, Minn., a great place to be next weekend. It's the sixth annual Festival of Owls, where visitors will meet such owls as Malcolm the barred owl, Pepe Lulu the barn owl, Oscar the long-eared owl and Little Bit, a northern saw-whet (pictured).

During evening owl prowls, naturalists will try to call in owls, which start breeding in March. And of course, everyone will celebrate the hatch day of Alice, the resident great horned owl. Details: Owl aboard.

When to go: The festival is Feb. 29-March 2, but most events are Saturday, March. 1

What else to do: Houston is the eastern trailhead of the 42-mile Root River State Trail, used for cross-country skiing in winter, and snow has been ample. La Crosse is half an hour farther east, www.explorelacrosse.com; there's good eagle-watching there and elsewhere along the Mississippi, especially at Wabasha and Reads Landing to the north and below the Genoa dam to the south.

Information: 507-896-4668, www.festivalofowls.com.


Head for the south woods

A skier works her way up a hill in Frontenac State Park.

How often do skiers and snowshoers find great conditions in southern Minnesota and Wisconsin? Hardly ever. But this year, the blizzards have veered south, making such non-hot spots as Winona and Baraboo great places to ski and snowshoe.

Where to go: Why not somewhere beautiful, like Devil's Lake State Park near Baraboo, Wis.? There's skiing on groomed trails and snowshoeing on the Ice Age National Scenic Trail, which cuts through the park. There's more than a foot of snow on the ground there and at nearby Mirror Lake State Park, just south of Wisconsin Dells.

In southern Minnesota, try the beautifully groomed trails at St. Mary's University, tucked into the bluffs on the north edge of Winona, or the trails at Frontenac and Great River Bluffs State Park.

What to do: "A Prairie Home Companion'' is coming to Winona Feb. 23, with special guests Beausoleil and the Marcia Ball Band, www.alumni.winona.edu. Also on Feb. 23, the Al. Ringling Theatre in Baraboo presents "The Bachelor,'' part of the "Guys on Ice'' comic trilogy, www.alringling.com.

Snow conditions: www.travelwisconsin.com; www.mnparks.info; www.skinnyski.com.


Winter in Wausau

A dad and his daughter finish a run at Giants Ridge.
This town in north-central Wisconsin isn't flashy and likely never will be. Yet it has fine dining, lovely hotels, a popular art museum, a superb entertainment venue and skiing that's among the best in the Midwest. Best of all, it's easy to reach from the big cities. See Having it all in Wausau.

What to do during the day: Ski downhill at Granite Peak, which has expanded steadily and now has 74 runs served by seven chairlifts. Ski cross-country at Nine Mile Forest, which has 30 kilometers of trails, six of them lighted. Visit the free Leigh Yawkey Woodson Art Museum.

What to do at night: See a Broadway show in the Grand Theater, including "Dirty Rotten Scoundrels'' March 4-5. There's something every weekend, including comedians Colin Mochrie & Brad Sherwood Feb. 23, and Irish musicians Cherish the Ladies appear on St. Patrick's Day, March 17.

Where to stay: Going with kids? The Lodge at Cedar Creek, which has an indoor water park. Going for romance? The handsome Arts and Crafts-style Stewart Inn. Have a pet? The Jefferson Street Inn.

Where to eat: Back When Cafe and City Grill, both of which serve classy American fare.

Information: 888-948-4748, www.wausaucvb.com.



Madison with kids

Bucky the Badger at the State Capitol.
Madison is known as a college town, yet it's always putting on fun festivals and events for children. It's the perfect place to take the kids for a weekend in winter, when the city offers Winter Getaway deals. Details: Madison for all ages.

Events to catch: Feb. 2-3, Winter Festival on Capitol Square, www.winter-fest.com. Feb. 16, International Festival at the Overture Center. Both are free.

Free Kids in the Rotunda concerts, Saturdays at 9:30 a.m., 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. Other concerts and plays at the Overture Center, www.overturecenter.com.

Where to stay: Hilton Monona Terrace, three blocks from Capitol Square, from $109 (be sure to ask for the Winter Getaways rate), www.hiltonmadison.com.

Where to eat: Ella’s Deli & Ice Cream Parlor, for the wacky toys, www.ellas-deli.com.

What to do: Take a free guided tour of the Capitol, 9, 10 and 11 a.m. and 1, 2 and 3 p.m. Monday-Saturday.

Informationwww.visitmadison.com.


Ski the North Shore

Book cover of Skiing the North Shore
Snow is plentiful right now on Minnesota's North Shore.  Groomed trails and spectacular scenery make it a perfect place for a cross-country ski weekend. Details: Skiing the North Shore.

Where to ski: The Sugarbush system between Tofte and Lutsen has 69 kilometers of classical and skating trails groomed by Pisten Bully. The 3-kilometer Tofte Ski-down is all downhill from the Britton Peak trailhead to Sawtooth Outfitters/Bluefin Bay; the intermediate Homestead Loop, 12 kilometers from Britton Peak, has views of the lake.

Event to catch: On Feb. 16, there will be two candlelight skis, timed to coincide with the full moon: on the Sugarbush Trail at the Oberg Mountain trailhead near Tofte and at Gooseberry Falls State Park near Two Harbors (also for snowshoers).

Where to stay: For skiing out the door, the Cascade Lodge between Lutsen and Grand Marais, www.cascadelodgemn.com. Bluefin Bay has a lot of rooms and provides a shuttle for the Tofte Ski-down, www.bluefinbay.com.

Around Lutsen, cross-country skiers compete with alpine skiers. Try Cove Point Lodge in Beaver Bay,  www.covepointlodge.com Have kids? The Americinn in Silver Bay has a pool with a slide, www.americinnsilverbay.com.

Information: The handy new guide "Skiing the North Shore,'' by Andrew Slade, $15.95 at www.thereandbackbooks.com, has maps and all the information you need to find the best trails.

Swan-watching in Monticello

A family watches swans in Monticello.

In winter, 1,000 trumpeter swans gather at a warm spot on the Mississippi River. Details: Snow birds

How to get there: It's about an hour west of the Twin Cities. From I-94, take the first Monticello exit, which leads to County Road 75 (East Broadway). At the first stoplight, turn right onto 39, drive a quarter-mile and turn left onto Mississippi Drive.

When to go: Sheila Lawrence feeds the birds around 11 a.m. every day; get there early and watch them fly in. Swans also can be seen downstream, just inside the city limits at Battle Rapids, where there’s a clearing off County Road 39.

What else to do: Shop at Albertville Premium Outlets, www.premiumoutlets.com. Ski at nearby Lake Maria State Park,www.mnstateparks.info. Eat downtown at Crostini Grille, www.crostinigrille.com. Stay at Riverwood Inn, www.riverwoodinn.com, or the Historic Rand House B&B, www.randhouse.com.

More information: www.monticellochamber.com.


Eagles and a concert

Crossings at Carnegie in Zumbrota.

By day, watch wintering eagles along the Mississippi River. In the evening, catch a concert at one of four surprising venues.

Eagle-watching: Catch them in and around Wabasha and below dams. Details: Open sesame on the sloughs

Concerts: Go to the Oak Center General Store near Lake City, the Music Loft near Red Wing, the Sheldon in Red Wing or Crossings at Carnegie in Zumbrota. Details: Music along the Mississippi

Where to eat: In Alma, Kate and Gracie's across from the dam, www.kateandgracies.com.

Where to stay: On the bluff in Fountain City, Hawk's View Cottages, www.hawksview.net, or in Wabasha at Eagles on the River, www.eaglesontheriver.com.


Weekend in Chicago

Chicago river and skyline at night

When to go: During the holidays, this glittering town becomes the City of Broad Smiles. Join the festive crowds at the Christkindlmarket on Daley Plaza and along Michigan Avenue. For great hotel deals (try www.hotrooms.com and www.orbitz.com), go the week before Christmas and after New Year's, when the city offers Winter Delights discounts that continue through February.

What to do: Sip Glühwein and snack on warm sugared almonds at the remarkably
authentic German Christkindlmarket, open through Christmas Eve. "Wicked'' is drawing crowds to the Loop; check www.chicagoplays.com. For half-price tickets to other plays, concerts and comedy and dance performances, check www.hottix.org or stop by the Water Works Visitors Center at Michigan and Pearson.

There's a baby beluga whale to watch at the Shedd Aquarium and a new ice-skating rink in Millennium Park. At night, dive into the blues; the closest clubs are the two Blue Chicago clubs in River North (one admission is good for both) and Buddy Guy's Legends in the South Loop. House of Blues showcases blues and everything else: this winter, Wyclef Jean, the Go-Gos, Queensryche, the Indigo Girls, Buckwheat Zydeco and Gaelic Storm.

Where to stay: The best value in town is the Club Quarters at Wacker, just off Michigan, especially if you can get a riverview room high in the 1928 Mather Tower. It's a club hotel for business people, but booking services sell rooms to the public on weekends and holidays, when rates can drop below $100. For romance, try the Hotel Burnham in the Loop; families will like the Homewood Suites by Hilton in River North; students and budget travelers can find a great deal at Hostelling International's hostel in the South Loop.

How to get there: Air Tran seems to have a $39 one-way sale from the Twin Cities to Midway nearly every week, www.airtran.com; from Midway, it's an easy ride downtown on the Orange Line CTA train. Fares on the Megabus from Minneapolis or Milwaukee can be as low as $1 each way if you book 45 days in advance, www.megabus.com. If you've got time, take the train, www.amtrak.com.

More information: 877-244-2246, www.choosechicago.com. The Chicago Cultural Center at Michigan and Randolph makes a good first stop; see what's going on and have a bite in the cafe.